Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna are, first and foremost, storytellers. Each season we begin with a narrative that is entirely our own. This season we have begun a new chapter with Couture. The dresses looked as if immersed in gleaming crystals. The tuxedos sharp and detailed with modern embroideries made with heritage techniques.
The inspiration this season is from the luminescent, whimsically irregular, and rigorously aspirational masterworks from their past. This added a chic verticality to the embroideries, whether on a halter-neck gown or on an ornate velvet tuxedo jacket. And there are a series of evening dresses, mostly in rich gem-tones (emerald, amethyst, garnet), but also in a champagne for which sculptural ruffles take the place of any other form of ornamentation. And cocktail dresses they were black with just a hint of beige, each look was beaded, bejewelled, feathered, and wrapped in a bow to varying degrees.
The key to the code was the cutwork. Layer after layer, of tiny delicate sheer fabric pieces were hand embroidered on the outfit to form a lattice that veiled yet revealed the female form below. Then there were actual overlays capes and layers of sheer tulle covered with the most delicate organza frays. Everything shook or shimmied.
For Men the controlled use of tassels and fringes added movement and layers. The sparing use of gem coloured crystals and metallic thread embroidery added luxury to modern tailored silhouettes.
The collection is a profusion of opulence with embellish rich fabrics like velvet, duchesse satin, and chiffon in a harmonious palette of wine, grey, sapphire, and with mostly tonal arabesques or floral embroideries.
What is so brilliant to see in these pieces is the evolution of craft for they have mastered to execute impeccable fit withcareful construction skills. It is a combination of technique and fit, but also in an attitude that reflected the designer's long time desire to modernize couture.
When asked to comment about their foray into couture
Rohit and Rahul commented
“We have worked on a couture collection for the first time. We specialize in textural surface ornamentation and our hand embroideries are all based on old Indian crafts. So, it was a very natural transition to infuse our hand-done techniques on couture ensembles. The modern Indian bride and the groom were looking for something unusual, which is global yet traditional. We believe our collection with its emphasis on sculpted silhouettes softened with sensual shimmer is apt for the modern bride and groom who are breaking conventions by trying unusual silhouettes for their big day.”
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